LG 3HT

[renegade_cowboy]

Towards the end of the job I turn off my heater to cool down the water going through the coils. I heard from someone it needs to be done to "help prevent damage" to the coils. Is he correct?

thanks

 

[Bob Savage]

If that's what Little Giant recommends, then I would do it.

 

[Nate The Great]

Good question. I haven't had a problem with the coils. I do turn my LG 3HT off as I finish the carpet with the pump. If I got a helper, I have them shut it off right as I'm finishing up. I start packing everything up and it's cooled down most of the time to load it back up in the van without getting burned. Also, good idea to put one of those blue plastic safety QC in it.

 

[Bob Foster]

Judson Jones was in church one day and saw a heater being used in a baptism. After the service he went up and looked at it. He got to thinking that was a fine simple heater and he figured he might be able to use something like it it with his Judson TNT truckmount.

That is how Little Giant got into the carpet cleaning supply. Through out the years Jud, Dick and Les are responsible for why the thing is now so well suited and trouble free for our industry.

If anyone knows the answer it would be Judson, Les or Dick.

 

[Leslie Judson Jones]

Towards the end of the job I turn off my heater to cool down the water going through the coils. I heard from someone it needs to be done to "help prevent damage" to the coils. Is he correct?

thanks

Brent,
I don't know of any damage that would occur by not cooling your heater down. Most of the cleaners using Little Giant heaters don't do it, but it can't hurt to do it.

 

[Leslie Judson Jones]

Judson Jones was in church one day and saw a heater being used in a baptism. After the service he went up and looked at it. He got to thinking that was a fine simple heater and he figured he might be able to use something like it it with his Judson TNT truckmount.

That is how Little Giant got into the carpet cleaning supply. Through out the years Jud, Dick and Les are responsible for why the thing is now so well suited and trouble free for our industry.

If anyone knows the answer it would be Judson, Les or Dick.

The heaters that we were using before Little Giant were Ewings. They were steel coil heaters primarily used with pressure washers. When we first got a Little Giant Heater, I think it was somewhere around 1973 it seemed to work just fine with a truck mount.

If you remember the first Little Giant Heaters had the thermostats on the bottom. The ony problem with this design is if the thermostat was out of adjustment, and you released the trigger, the heater was capable of spiking. In other words the temperature climbed too high before the thermostat shut the flame off.

Knowing that heat rises, we took a number 3 Little Giant heater and mounted the thermostat at the top. This eliminated the spiking and would shut the flame off immediately. We were also part of the development of the #4 Little Giant HT. When they were first put on the market they had an electronic thermostat and ignition system.

We took one of the heaters and mounted a #3 HT system on it and it worked just fine. If anyone has any other questions about the Little Giant heaters I will be glad to answer them. I think we probably sell more of them than anyone else.

 

[floorguy]

i bet them ewings were bullet proof??

i dont like the little giants myself, having owned one...its one of the few things with out all the electric crap i dont like...That and if you wanna do any serious T&G you gotta watch the pressure..

Having owned a steel coil and electric flow fired, i would anyday of the week...

Plus the "casing" for a little giant can get beat if not watched...mine, hell you could damn near roll it off a cliff and it would still look sharp

 

[renegade_cowboy]

Towards the end of the job I turn off my heater to cool down the water going through the coils. I heard from someone it needs to be done to "help prevent damage" to the coils. Is he correct?

thanks

Brent,
I don't know of any damage that would occur by not cooling your heater down. Most of the cleaners using Little Giant heaters don't do it, but it can't hurt to do it.

Thanks Les....

 

[Shane T]

I've got a question for Les. A 3HT was working but after setting a good long time it will not fire up. The pilot will light and stay on but when I turn the control valve to "ON" nothing happens. No gas to burner. Is there an easy fix or do I have to replace valve?

 

[Bill Soukoreff]

i bet them ewings were bullet proof??

i dont like the little giants myself, having owned one...its one of the few things with out all the electric crap i dont like...That and if you wanna do any serious T&G you gotta watch the pressure..

Having owned a steel coil and electric flow fired, i would anyday of the week...

Plus the "casing" for a little giant can get beat if not watched...mine, hell you could damn near roll it off a cliff and it would still look sharp

You got that right. Steel coil, flow fired heaters rock. Little Giants are just to fragile when it comes to high pressure and some mild freezing situations.

 

[Ron Werner]

challenge with steel coils is the orange water that comes out of them, ie rust.



Hey Les, how do you take the ring out to clean the jets?
BTW, had my 4HT cranked a little the other day with a Mytee Spinner, jet on for a couple minutes and she was steady at 230.
WOn't keep up with 15flow on my greenhorn though.

 

[Leslie Judson Jones]

I've got a question for Les. A 3HT was working but after setting a good long time it will not fire up. The pilot will light and stay on but when I turn the control valve to "ON" nothing happens. No gas to burner. Is there an easy fix or do I have to replace valve?

Shane,
I know exactly what is wrong with your number 3 HT. Your thermostat heat control is out of adjustment. To readjust the thermostat, you pull the big red knob off the front. Then you will see a jam nut and a tab. This tab has stop points. You loosen the jam nut, reposition the tab on the shaft to where the valve clicks on at the 1 o'clock position. It is very easy to not get this right. Also it is very important that you only do this knowing that cold water is in the heater only. I would prefer you adjust this while talking to me on the telephone. Unfortunately I am flying to Portland Oregon in the morning. I am working on a secret project at a jet propulsion labratory there. I will be back Saturday. If you can't wait until then, maybe Greenie can help you.

 

[Guest]

I've got a question for Les. A 3HT was working but after setting a good long time it will not fire up. The pilot will light and stay on but when I turn the control valve to "ON" nothing happens. No gas to burner. Is there an easy fix or do I have to replace valve?

It is the whole themo box,just replaced one myself.If you do not have a supplier near,Cobb has them for $99.

 

[Bill Soukoreff]

challenge with steel coils is the orange water that comes out of them, ie rust.

I have never found that to be a problem. My heater is over 4 years old.

 

[Shane T]

Thanks Les, There's no hurry on it as this is a backup unit I picked up. I may give it a try as I have adjusted them in the past. If needed I'll call you next week. Thanks again for the reply.

 

[floorguy]

[quote="Ron Werner":1jyfbpxp]challenge with steel coils is the orange water that comes out of them, ie rust.

I have never found that to be a problem. My heater is over 4 years old.[/quote:1jyfbpxp]


Happened about the first 3 mths..then nothing...I always bleed my system to start anyway, you know get it hot before i plug in....besides where you think i get my hot water for prespray from???

 

[Nate The Great]

[quote="Ron Werner":2xexuxyy]challenge with steel coils is the orange water that comes out of them, ie rust.

I have never found that to be a problem. My heater is over 4 years old.

Happened about the first 3 mths..then nothing...I always bleed my system to start anyway, you know get it hot before i plug in....besides where you think i get my hot water for prespray from??? [/quote:2xexuxyy]


So you use rusty water for prespray, got it! :mrgreen:

 

[floorguy]

hey smart ass....

get your ass back to pre-spraying with sugar cane and pineapple juice ok??? :wink:

 

[Nate The Great]

Keep watching your Hanna Montana, Capiche? :shock:

 

[floorguy]

hey that was a good movie....

and i got to watch it on a WED night :wink: :wink: :wink: HAHAH


plus the 1st 20 min or so of 17 again is pretty damn funny.....


"I think our hands just made a baby......."



ROFLMAO that was a funny part there

 

[Nate The Great]

hey that was a good movie....

and i got to watch it on a WED night :wink: :wink: :wink: HAHAH


plus the 1st 20 min or so of 17 again is pretty damn funny.....


"I think our hands just made a baby......."



ROFLMAO that was a funny part there

Right?! J\k

 

[Ron Werner]

I had bought a oil burner heater, lasted less than a year. I'd flush it well before each job, it would clear out after a minute. Then just couldn't get any clear water. We flushed and descaled and flushed, and after all that it got down to a light clear orange.

Never did provide consistent heat, up to 240 down to 180 up to 240 and down to 180, so I guess it was consistent :roll: Les pointed out something about putting the controller at the top to avoid the spikes. That probably would have helped! If it weren't for the rust coloured water I would have kept it. $2700 down the crapper. Plus the $2200 it cost me for to replace the white carpet I got black death on after it bunrt out my hose!

 

[Dominick Cassano]

Change out the capillary tube and thermo bulb.

 

[floorguy]

ya flushed it is why

if you left it slightly built up then it coats the iron...

 

[Ron Werner]

it was blowing out crappy water before we flushed it. Couldn't get it to clear out, THEN we tried all sorts of things to get clear water.

 

[Bill Soukoreff]

You just need to run a alkaline rinse through the heater on high heat and it will coat it enough to never be a problem. I never run water through my heater before I start cleaning and can a clean a pure white sofa after a weekend of no use without any worry of rust colored water.

If you have that problem, then you need to change to a different product that works.

What I like about the Savage heater (and most steal coil heaters) is that the burner jets are way bigger than a little giant and don't get plugged or need cleaning for several years. Plus you have enough BTU's to compensate before you may need to descale the coils. If you occasionally run an acid rinse every few months then you will never even have to do that.

 

[Ron Werner]

that would have been the problem then.
I was running an acid rinse rather than an alkaline emulsifier.

I wonder how it would be now. The unit has sat for almost 2 yrs

 

[floorguy]

heyyyyy thats wat i said!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Ron Werner]

SO Doug, would running an emulsifier through it a couple years later clear it up?
I still owe about $700 on it, he's trying to sell it. I could still keep it and modify it so the heat doesn't spike as much

 

[floorguy]

I run mostly water through mine...probably at least 75% of the time...

I think that here we have harder water then most, so that adds to it...

but the few times i run an emulsifer through it i am sure it helps...

ill take a pic where my disconnect is, it has a white coating on it. I dont think its bad, i dunn maybe someone else will, but it gets plenty hot so i am not worried about it...

i have had it 2.5 yrs now